Saturday, August 1, 2009

Medieval Fortress

Carcassonne is probably one of the best preserved medieval fortresses in Europe. It's enclosed by two miles of walls and has over 50 lookout towers throughout. Everytime I look at one of these fortified towns I can't help but think how much of a pain it was to haul that many stones into place back before machinery existed. I wonder how many people and how many years it took to lay 2 miles of walls that in some places are 60 feet high.

The Romans built the first structure on this site and it has been occupied since. Carcassonne has had many different residents over the years: Romans, Visigoths, Cathars, Jews, Crusaders, French and finally the tourists. What was for hundreds of years a menacing and powerful site is now the subject of postcards, kids toys, T-shirts, coloring books and on. As we walked through the drawbridge crossing the moat we entered into the gauntlet of tourists scurrying through the narrow streets. And the first shop you pass through the entrance - shortbread cookies! Of course, we bought a few and quickly realized that one of these dense, calorie-laden suckers was enough for a small family's dinner. We decided to work the cookie off by taking a walk along the walls of the city. We finished our walk in the popular square where four or five restaurants were set up. It was about 8pm and nearly all of the outside tables were full. Europeans love to eat outside. We've been in line for a table at a restaurant before and realized that the wait was only for outside tables. If we wanted to eat "inside", then we had our choice of tables. Since many restaurants can open up so that there isn't a boundary between indoor and outdoor, then the only difference is that inside has a roof. Well, maybe it's also because you can smoke outside, but that's not an issue for us either.

We took one of the remaining outside tables in the square and ordered quickly. There were some ominous clouds moving in and the breeze was starting to kick up. As we rushed to finish our meal, we noticed that most of the British, French and Dutch tourists around us weren't paying much attention to what was about to happen. If you've ever wondered what happens to a packed square of a couple hundred diners at peak dinner time when a storm blows through, then wonder no more. We've documented it all!

First the wind started blowing glasses over and napkins and menus off the tables. That got the attention of some. Then the hail started landing on our tables, which prompted a second wave to head inside (including Jen). Then the heavy downpour started. Those who "thought" they were safe because they were under an umbrella found out that they were also in the line of fire. Then, complete chaos as the French waiters ordered a full evacuation to the inferior interiors.

And finally, the aftermath... The waiter was quick to apologize - for what, we're not sure. About 15 minutes later the tables were filling up again and it almost looked like nothing had happened. I'm not sure why that suprised us considering the ability to shrug off wars, sieges, crusades and bad storms has been going on in this square for nearly 900 years.

Carcassone
(click for photo album)

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